Hair products have gotten complicated with all the pomades, clays, pastes, creams, and whatever-they-invent-next flying around. As someone who’s bought more jars of product than I’d like to admit (and thrown away plenty that didn’t work), I learned everything there is to know about what each one actually does and when to use it. Today, I will share it all with you.
Let me save you the years of trial and error I went through. I used to grab whatever had cool packaging at the drugstore, put way too much in my hair, and wonder why I looked like I hadn’t showered. The turning point was when my barber watched me try to style my hair after a cut and said, “That’s… not the right product for your hair.” Humbling? Yes. Life-changing? Also yes.
Understanding Product Categories
Pomade
Pomade is the OG of men’s styling products. Been around since the early 1900s and it’s still going strong because, frankly, it just works. My grandfather used pomade. I use pomade. There’s something satisfying about a product with that kind of track record.
What it actually does: Gives you medium to high shine with medium to strong hold. The best part? You can restyle throughout the day. Run your fingers through, push it back, change the part — the product stays active. It gives that slick, polished look that’s impossible to replicate with anything else.
Who should use it: Anyone going for classic styles — slick-backs, side parts, pompadours. If you want hair that stays put but still looks alive and natural, pomade’s your move.
Who should skip it: Fine hair folks (it’ll weigh you down into sadness). People in humid climates using oil-based formulas (it can literally melt off your head). Anyone who wants a matte, natural finish — that’s not what pomade does.
The types you need to know:
- Oil-based: The old-school formula. Maximum shine, strong hold, and it takes two or three shampoos to get out. Hardcore pomade heads love it. Your pillowcase will not.
- Water-based: Modern version. Same look, same results, washes out in one shampoo. Unless you have a specific reason for oil-based, go water-based. Your life will be easier.
- Unorthodox water-based (UWB): The best of both worlds — performs like oil-based but washes out easily. More expensive, but if you’re serious about your pomade game, worth trying.
Clay
Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Clay products are what I recommend to most people as their first “real” styling product. They’ve exploded in popularity over the past decade and for good reason.
What it does: Matte to low-shine finish with medium hold. Your hair looks textured and separated but still totally touchable. Not stiff, not shiny, just… better. Like your hair on a really good day, but every day.
Who should use it: Pretty much anyone going for that “I woke up like this” look. Textured crops, messy styles, anything where you want to look like you didn’t try too hard. Works on most hair types, which is rare.
Who should skip it: If you want a slicked-back, super polished look — clay won’t get you there. Very curly hair can sometimes react poorly (frizz). And if you need absolute all-day hold, clay might not have enough grip.
How to use it right: Take a small amount (less than you think), warm it between your palms until it’s pliable, then work it through dry or slightly damp hair. Start with barely any and add more if needed. You can always add. You can never subtract. That’s the first lesson of clay.
Wax
Wax sits somewhere in the middle ground between pomade and clay. It’s the Switzerland of hair products.
What it does: Medium shine, medium to strong hold. More workable than clay, less slick than pomade. Great for separation and definition — you can pull individual pieces apart and they’ll stay.
Who should use it: Short to medium length hair. People who want definition without that wet look. If you’re going for spiky, piece-y, or separated styles, wax is probably your best bet.
Who should skip it: Fine hair (can look greasy fast). Very long hair (not enough hold to do anything useful). And if you live somewhere hot, wax can melt and transfer onto everything you touch. I learned this during a Texas summer. My car headrest still has marks.
Gel
Gel has a bad reputation and it’s mostly deserved — BUT. The crunchy, helmet-head, frozen-in-place gel look from the 90s is not what modern gel is about. I avoided gel for fifteen years because of that association. Turns out I was wrong.
What it does: High shine, medium to strong hold. Once it sets, it’s not moving. Gives a wet, sleek appearance that nothing else can replicate.
Who should use it: Anyone going for slicked-back styles, very structured looks, or using it for edge control. Curly-haired folks often love gel because it defines curls and holds them in place all day.
Who should skip it: If you want to run your fingers through your hair at any point during the day, gel is not your friend. Natural, touchable styles? Not gel’s thing. Dry or damaged hair can get worse with alcohol-based gels.
The modern upgrade: Look for “flexible hold” gels or gel-pomade hybrids. They give you the shine and structure without the crunch. These changed my mind about gel entirely.
Cream
Cream is the light beer of hair products. Less intense, more approachable, works for casual situations.
What it does: Low shine, light to medium hold. Adds moisture and definition without making your hair stiff or crunchy. Makes hair look healthy and natural — like you just have really good hair.
Who should use it: Longer styles, wavy or curly hair, fine hair that gets crushed by heavier products. If “natural but slightly improved” is your goal, cream is the answer. My wife uses cream on her hair and it always looks effortlessly good.
Who should skip it: If you need serious hold for a structured style. Very short hair — cream won’t have enough to work with. Oily hair types might find it adds too much moisture on top of what’s already there.
Paste
Paste is clay’s slightly more serious cousin. Similar vibe but usually with a bit more hold and less texture.
What it does: Matte to low shine, medium to strong hold. Creates separation and definition. Versatile enough for most casual to semi-formal styles.
Who should use it: Messy, textured looks on medium-length hair. Anyone who wants noticeable hold without shine. If you can’t decide between clay and pomade, paste might be your compromise.
Who should skip it: Super smooth, polished styles (not enough shine). Some pastes are heavy enough to weigh down fine hair, so check the formula.
Sea Salt Spray
Sea salt spray is different from everything else on this list because it’s a pre-styler, not a finisher. You use it BEFORE your main product, or sometimes on its own for a casual look.
What it does: Adds texture, volume, and grip to your hair. Creates that beachy, just-got-out-of-the-ocean look. Makes fine, flat hair actually cooperate.
Who should use it: Fine hair that needs body. Anyone wanting that tousled beach vibe. As a prep step before blow-drying to give other products something to grip onto. I use sea salt spray under my clay and the difference is dramatic.
Who should skip it: Dry or damaged hair — salt is drying and will make things worse. Don’t rely on it as your only product unless you genuinely want the surfer look. Polished, smooth styles and salt spray don’t mix.
Mousse
Mousse is the most underrated product on this list. People think it’s stuck in the 80s, but it’s genuinely useful for specific hair types.
What it does: Adds volume and body without any weight. Light to medium hold. Helps with blow-drying and heat styling. It’s like air with a job.
Who should use it: Fine hair that falls flat within an hour of styling. Curly hair that needs definition without heaviness. Anyone who blow-dries regularly — mousse before blow-drying gives you volume that lasts all day. That’s what makes mousse endearing to us fine-haired folks — nothing else adds body without weighing us down.
Who should skip it: If you need serious hold. Very short hair (nothing to work with). Thick, coarse hair won’t notice mousse exists.
Matching Products to Your Hair Type
Fine Hair
Fine hair is my personal battlefield, so I know this one intimately. The biggest issue is that everything weighs it down and shows product buildup immediately.
What works: Mousse, lightweight cream, sea salt spray, clay in very small amounts
What doesn’t: Heavy pomades, thick waxes, anything labeled “strong hold” unless you’re extremely conservative with the amount
My tip: Start with literally half the amount you think you need. Then use half of THAT. Fine hair needs almost nothing. I’ve ruined more good hair days by over-applying than by any other mistake.
Thick Hair
Thick hair is the opposite problem. You need products with actual authority, or your hair just does whatever it wants.
What works: Pomade, strong-hold clay, paste, wax. Things with backbone.
What doesn’t: Light creams and mousses that’ll be overpowered in 20 minutes. Anything marketed as “lightweight hold” is basically invisible to thick hair.
Pro tip: Apply to damp hair for easier distribution. Thick hair absorbs product like a sponge, so you’ll probably need more than the instructions say. My thick-haired friends always laugh when I show them how little product I use — they need three times as much.
Curly Hair
Curly hair needs moisture first, definition second, and hold third. In that order.
What works: Curl-specific creams, light gels, leave-in conditioner as a base layer, mousse for volume without weight
What doesn’t: Anything that dries hair out. Products you have to rake through aggressively (this disrupts curl formation and creates frizz)
The technique matters: Apply to wet hair, scrunch it in sections, and let it air dry when possible. The scrunching motion encourages curls to form. Raking product through with your fingers does the opposite.
Straight Hair
Straight hair is the most versatile type for products, but it’s also the easiest to make look oily or flat.
What works: Depends entirely on your goal — clay for texture, pomade for slick looks, cream for natural finish. You’ve got options.
What doesn’t: Over-applying anything. Heavy product on the roots.
The key: Focus product on the ends and mid-lengths. Keep the roots relatively clean. This gives you style and volume instead of greasy roots and stiff ends.
Dry or Damaged Hair
If your hair feels like straw, your product choices need to prioritize moisture above everything else.
What works: Creams, leave-in conditioners, hydrating pomades with nourishing ingredients
What doesn’t: Sea salt spray (salt + dry hair = disaster). Alcohol-based products. Anything that sets to a dry, matte finish.
A trick I use: Layer a tiny amount of hair oil as a base before applying your styling product. It creates a moisture barrier that makes everything on top perform better.
How to Apply Products Without Messing It Up
The Right Amount
This is where 90% of product disasters happen. Here’s my rule of thumb: pea-sized for short hair, dime-sized for medium, nickel-sized for longer hair. Can you always add more? Yes. Can you un-apply the glob you just smeared across your head? No. No you cannot. Trust me on this one.
Distribution Is Everything
Rub the product between your palms FIRST. Get it warm, get it evenly spread across both hands, and then — here’s the part most people miss — start at the BACK of your head. Work forward. Finish with the front and hairline. If you start at the front, you dump all the product where it’s most visible and end up with a greasy face-frame and a product-free back. I did this for years before someone corrected me.
Damp vs. Dry Application
Some products want damp hair (pomade, gel). Others prefer dry (clay, wax). There isn’t one universal answer. Check the product’s label or, better yet, try it both ways and see which gives you a better result. I found that my clay works significantly better on 80% dry hair than on fully dry. Experiment.
Blow-Drying Changes the Game
If you want volume, direction, or a specific shape, blow-dry BEFORE applying your finishing product. Spray in a heat protectant, blow-dry in the direction you want your hair to go, and THEN add your pomade or clay or whatever. The blow-dry creates the structure. The product holds it in place. Doing this in the wrong order is like putting a coat of paint on wet drywall — technically possible, much worse results.
Mistakes I’ve Made (So You Don’t Have To)
Using too much product: This was my number one sin for years. If your hair feels stiff, crunchy, or looks greasy, you used too much. Hair should still feel like hair, not a sculpture.
Wrong product for the situation: I once tried to make pomade work on a beach day. I once used clay for a formal event where I needed a slick look. Learn from my confusion — match the product to the style you’re going for, not the one you usually use.
Dumping product on the roots: Product at the roots equals instant grease look. Mid-lengths and ends. That’s where it goes. The roots get whatever’s left on your hands after everything else.
Skipping wash days: Product buildup makes hair look progressively worse. If you use product daily, a clarifying shampoo once a week strips the buildup and gives you a fresh start. I was wondering why my hair looked dull for months before figuring this out.
Ignoring expiration: Old products don’t just lose effectiveness — they can irritate your scalp. That jar of pomade from three years ago? Toss it. Replace products every 1-2 years, or sooner if they start smelling different or changing texture.
Building Your Simple Product Routine
You do not need twelve products. Three is plenty. Some people do great with two. Here’s the framework:
- A pre-styler (sea salt spray, mousse, or heat protectant) — this is optional but makes a big difference if you blow-dry or have fine hair
- Your main styling product — the one that matches your hair type and the style you’re going for. This is the essential one.
- A finishing product (hairspray for extra hold, or a light oil for shine) — also optional, but nice for special occasions or stubborn hair
Start with just the main product. Add a pre-styler or finisher only if you feel like something’s missing. The goal is the minimum number of products that give you the result you want. Anything beyond that is just cluttering your bathroom counter and emptying your wallet.
The right product is the one that gets you the look you’re after without making your hair feel or look unnatural. Buy small sizes first. Ask your barber what they use on your hair after a cut — they just demonstrated what works for you specifically. And don’t be loyal to a product that isn’t loyal to you. If it’s not working, try something different. Your hair will tell you when you’ve found the right one.
