Hair Products Explained From Pomade to Clay

That jar of product sitting on your bathroom counter could be making your hair look worse instead of better. Most people buy whatever looks good on the shelf without understanding what different products actually do. Here’s everything you need to know about choosing and using hair products that work for your specific hair type and style.

Understanding Product Categories

Pomade

Pomade is the classic men’s styling product. It’s been around since the early 1900s and remains popular because it works.

What it does: Provides medium to high shine and medium to strong hold. Allows you to restyle throughout the day. Gives a slick, polished look.

Best for: Classic styles like slick-backs, side parts, and pompadours. Hair that needs to stay in place but still look natural.

Not ideal for: Fine hair (can weigh it down). Humid climates (traditional oil-based pomades can melt). Anyone who wants a matte finish.

Types to know:

• Oil-based: Traditional formula. High shine, strong hold, hard to wash out. Needs multiple shampoos to remove.
• Water-based: Modern formula. Similar results but washes out with one shampoo. Most people should choose this.
• Unorthodox water-based (UWB): Performs like oil-based but washes out easily. Best of both worlds, but typically more expensive.

Clay

Clay products have become incredibly popular over the past decade, especially for textured, natural-looking styles.

What it does: Provides matte to low-shine finish. Medium hold that looks touchable, not stiff. Adds texture and separation.

Best for: Textured crops, messy styles, anyone who wants to look like they didn’t try too hard. Works well on most hair types.

Not ideal for: Super slick styles. Very curly hair (can cause frizz). Styles that need to stay perfectly in place all day.

How to use: Warm a small amount between your palms until it becomes workable. Apply to dry or slightly damp hair. Start with less than you think you need – you can always add more.

Wax

Wax falls somewhere between pomade and clay in terms of shine and hold.

What it does: Medium shine, medium to strong hold. More pliable than clay, less slick than pomade. Good separation and definition.

Best for: Short to medium length hair. Styles that need definition without looking wet. Spiky or piece-y looks.

Not ideal for: Fine hair (can look greasy). Very long hair (not enough hold). Hot weather (can melt and transfer).

Gel

Gel gets a bad reputation because of the crunchy, wet-look styles from the 90s. Modern gels are actually quite versatile.

What it does: High shine, medium to strong hold. Sets in place and doesn’t move. Gives a wet or sleek appearance.

Best for: Slicked-back styles, very structured looks, holding curly hair in place, edge control.

Not ideal for: Anyone who wants to run fingers through their hair. Natural, touchable styles. Dry or damaged hair.

Modern alternatives: Look for “flexible hold” gels or gel-pomade hybrids that give shine without the crunch.

Cream

Creams are lighter than most other products and provide a more natural finish.

What it does: Low shine, light to medium hold. Adds moisture and definition without stiffness. Makes hair look healthy.

Best for: Longer styles, curly or wavy hair, fine hair that gets weighed down by heavier products, natural looks.

Not ideal for: Styles that need strong hold. Very short hair (won’t do much). Oily hair (can add too much moisture).

Paste

Paste is similar to clay but typically with a bit more hold and less texture.

What it does: Matte to low shine, medium to strong hold. Creates separation and definition. Versatile for many styles.

Best for: Messy, textured looks. Medium length hair. Anyone who wants hold without shine.

Not ideal for: Very smooth, polished styles. Fine hair (some pastes can be heavy).

Sea Salt Spray

This one is different from the others because it’s applied before styling.

What it does: Adds texture and volume to hair. Creates a beachy, tousled look. Provides grip for other products.

Best for: Pre-styling preparation. Fine, flat hair. Beachy, wavy styles. Adding body before blow-drying.

Not ideal for: Dry or damaged hair (salt is drying). As your only product (you’ll likely need something on top). Polished, smooth styles.

Mousse

Mousse is underrated. Many people dismiss it as outdated, but it’s incredibly useful for certain hair types.

What it does: Adds volume and body without weight. Light to medium hold. Helps with blow-drying and heat styling.

Best for: Fine hair that falls flat. Adding volume before blow-drying. Curly hair definition. Anyone who feels weighed down by other products.

Not ideal for: Strong hold needs. Very short hair. Thick, coarse hair (won’t do much).

Matching Products to Hair Types

Fine Hair

Fine hair gets weighed down easily and shows product buildup quickly.

Best products: Mousse, lightweight cream, sea salt spray, clay (in small amounts)

Avoid: Heavy pomades, thick waxes, anything with “strong hold” unless you use very little

Application tip: Always start with half the amount you think you need. Work up from there.

Thick Hair

Thick hair needs products with more hold and staying power.

Best products: Pomade, strong-hold clay, paste, wax

Avoid: Light creams and mousses (won’t be enough). Products that claim “lightweight hold”

Application tip: Apply to damp hair for easier distribution. Thick hair absorbs product, so you may need more than the directions suggest.

Curly Hair

Curly hair needs moisture and definition without frizz.

Best products: Curl-specific creams, light gels, leave-in conditioner as a base, mousse for volume

Avoid: Anything that dries out hair. Products you need to work through hair too much (disrupts curl pattern)

Application tip: Apply to wet hair in sections. Scrunch, don’t rake. Let air dry when possible.

Straight Hair

Straight hair is versatile but can look flat or oily easily.

Best products: Depends on your style – clay for texture, pomade for slick looks, cream for natural finish

Avoid: Over-applying anything. Heavy products on the roots

Application tip: Focus product on the ends and mid-lengths. Keep roots relatively clean for volume.

Dry or Damaged Hair

Dry hair needs products that add moisture, not strip it.

Best products: Creams, leave-in conditioners, hydrating pomades

Avoid: Sea salt spray, alcohol-based products, anything that dries matte

Application tip: Use styling products with conditioning ingredients. Consider a hair oil as a base layer.

How to Apply Products Correctly

The Right Amount

This is where most people go wrong. Start with a pea-sized amount for short hair, a dime-sized amount for medium hair, and a nickel-sized amount for longer hair. You can always add more, but you can’t remove excess without washing your hair.

Distribution Matters

Rub product between your palms first to warm it up and distribute it evenly. Then apply to hair, starting at the back where product tends to be heaviest. Work forward, finishing with the front and hairline.

Damp vs. Dry

Some products work better on damp hair (pomade, gel) while others work better on dry (clay, wax). Check the product directions or experiment to find what works for your hair.

Blow-Drying Changes Everything

If you want more volume or a specific shape, blow-dry before applying product. Apply a heat protectant or pre-styler, blow-dry in the direction you want your hair to go, then apply your finishing product.

Common Product Mistakes

Using too much: The number one mistake. Your hair shouldn’t feel stiff, crunchy, or greasy. If it does, you used too much.

Wrong product for your hair type: Using pomade on fine hair or cream on thick hair usually disappoints.

Applying to the wrong area: Product on your roots makes hair look oily. Focus on mid-lengths and ends.

Not washing properly: Product buildup makes your hair look dull and flat. Use a clarifying shampoo once a week if you use product daily.

Ignoring product expiration: Old products can irritate your scalp and won’t perform as well. Replace products every 1-2 years.

Building Your Product Routine

You don’t need a dozen products. Most people do well with two or three:

1. A pre-styler (sea salt spray, mousse, or heat protectant) – optional, but helpful for certain styles
2. Your main styling product – matches your hair type and desired style
3. A finishing product (hairspray or light oil) – optional, for extra hold or shine

Start simple. Add products only if you need something your current routine isn’t providing.

The right product for you is the one that gives you the style you want without making your hair look or feel unnatural. Experiment with small sizes before committing to full bottles, and don’t be afraid to ask your barber for recommendations specific to your cut.